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Where
to Find Gerbils Choosing a Home for Gerbils Shopping List for New Gerbils Basic Care Cleaning Your Gerbils’ Tank Is My Gerbil Sick? Advanced Gerbilling |
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Short & sweet... here’s what gerbils need:
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A little hay or fresh veggies every day helps keep digestive systems in order - and its yummy, too!
Gerbils frolic in a bath of chinchilla sand or dust in a wide ceramic bowl. |
Weighing all
factors, I feel the best gerbil home by far is a simple
glass aquarium with a wire-mesh lid. It is inexpensive; many pet stores
sell tanks for $8 or less. Or you might find a old one at a yard sale
or even curb-side on trash day. The tank does not have to be
water-proof but do check a used tank for sharp edges, and never use one
with broken or cracked glass. New or used, clean it thoroughly with
soap and water before use.
Because gerbils dig and chew so much, they will quickly destroy all the plastic parts of a Habitrail or similar plastic housing. A wire-mesh cage with a plastic bottom can work, but gerbils’ enthusiastic digging means litter will be flying out of the cage and onto the floor. You may have heard aquariums are not good housing for rodents. Larger rodents with stronger and more copious urine (like rabbits and guinea pigs) can suffer if an excess of ammonia gas builds up an aquarium (unless it is kept very clean). But it is not true for gerbils, whose efficient desert-born metabolism lets them use every drop of water from their food, thereby producing very little urine.
The size of the aquarium to buy depends on how many gerbils you will
keep. 2 or 3 gerbils can live happily in a 10-gallon tank. (If you have
three in there, expect to clean it more often.) Four or more would need
more spacious accomodations. Very large clans are not generally
recommended for other reasons, so a 10 to 20 gallon tank should do for
most gerbil housing.
For a few extra dollars, a stick-on aquarium thermometer is a good
investment. While it is not as accurate as a standard room thermometer,
it will help you stay on top of very important temperature regulation,
described below.
A lid is a good investment, whether or not you have other pets or
children in the house. Gerbils can easily jump out of tanks, especially
when they’ve raised the litter level with the remains of the tubes and
boxes they’ve chewed up for you. If your gerbil makes a get-away during
the day while you’re at work, it may be very hard to find him, and he
may find a way out of the house. You may pay more for the lid than the
tank, but get a lid!
Wire mesh lids are usually available in the reptile section of most
pet stores or on the Internet. These can be very simple (a metal
rectangle with wire mesh) or more elaborate, with hinges, a door in the
middle, etc. My advice is to buy the simplest lid available. The little
doors, for instance, are cute, but getting a gerbil out of a tank
through any opening smaller than the lid itself is hard. Far better to
simply lift the lid off! (The one exception is if you are introducing
two gerbils using a Split Cage. In that case, a hinged, two-part lid is
valuable.)
Clips are useful if you have animals or small children in the house.
Secure clips may keep the lid on even if the tank gets pushed off its
perch, so if you have a dog or cat who might be hunting the gerbils,
definitely consider clips. We discuss clips and children more below.
People tend to spend far less time choosing the location of the tank in their homes than they do shopping for the tank in the store. Actually, the decision of where to put the tank in your home is far more difficult, and more important for the gerbils’ safety and health, than what you house them in.
Choose the location of your gerbils’ tank with care. The key safety
issues are
temperature control,
daily contact,
safe removal, and
supervision of children. You may also want to consider the fact that
the gerbils will have as a side-effect some mess - seeds and hay will
spill, for instance. Also, you’ll need at least some storage for their
food, a wheel, boxes and tubes awaiting "chew-cycling", etc. So pick a
spot where clean-up is easy, and you don’t mind (or can hide) their
equipment.
Even though gerbils are descended from desert animals, they cannot endure extremes of heat or cold. In the wild, they would have deep burrows to escape the elements, but in a tank, they have only a few inches of litter. As a rule of thumb, consider your own comfort. If the temperature range is comfortable for you, it will be okay for gerbils: 65-80°F is comfortable and safe for all.
The day before your gerbils come home, check the spot you’ve chosen
every two hours or so for climate-control issues. You’ve purchased a
tank with an attached aquarium thermometer, put it in the spot and
check its temperature gauge. Or
put a regular room thermometer there.
Be especially careful of the following:
The old expression “out of sight, out of mind” can have very bad
consequences for your gerbils. They cannot bark, meow, or squawk for
your attention, so put them where you will see them every day!
Certainly, when they are new and exciting, everyone in the house will
check them frequently. But as you grow accustomed to them, it can be
too easy to forget to feed them and check their litter and water bottle
every day. Daily contact will make you and your gerbils enjoy a better
relationship.
Children
are often the driving force behind a gerbil acquisition,
and children’s bedrooms are a frequent destination for the gerbil tank.
They have the advantages of daily contact and usually good temperature
control, and you can close the door to take gerbils out safe from other
pets. However, before you agree to put the gerbils in your child’s
room, consider a few things carefully.
First, is your child is
mature
enough not to play with your
gerbil in inappropriate ways when she is quietly out of your
sight in her room? Children younger than 10 or so often think of
gerbils as living toys. They give them rides in doll carriages or on
Barbie’s carousel. They take them out for a “run”, then forget them.
They challenge them to walk across ledges, or climb the cage screen, or
place them inside boxes or bags, or toss them in the air. They put them
inside their clothing
(which can also lead to a nasty bite). Without meaning harm, your
child’s play can be terrifying or deadly for a small animal.
Even if your child is mature enough, or you feel he understands how
delicate his new pets are, consider that your child may entertain
friends in his room. Not all of these friends will be as trustworthy as
your child. Even if your child understands the risks, he or she will
find it hard to say “no” to a persuasive friend’s bad idea. And even if
two children are handling gerbils as gently as possible, children
sometimes flinch or shy away from the tiny scrambling feet and claws
and drop the gerbil. A gerbil loose underfoot with a couple of
shrieking,
giggling children can easily be stepped on and killed.
Public spaces are often a better choice for gerbils in a family with
young children. If you do place gerbils in the bedrooms of children
under
age 10, establish a rule that gerbils can be handled only
with an adult around, or at least that an adult must be present when
friends handle gerbils. (Keep in mind there is some risk to the
friends, too! A gerbil bite can be painful, and you’ll feel badly if a
child gets bitten at your house.) Use clips to enforce the rule and if
it is not
followed, move the gerbils to the family room or kitchen where they are
in plain view.
Hopefully, you will want to handle your gerbils every day or so. Gerbils that get a lot of contact will run up your arm, sit on your shoulder, sniff your ear, and crawl happily all over you, their human jungle gym. But if you have cats, dogs or other hunting animals in the house, you may want to choose a room with a door so that you can safely lock other pets out while you enjoy your gerbil time.
Perhaps you don’t have a room with a door that fits the other criteria described above, or you just prefer to keep your gerbils in the living room or kitchen in the center of things. In that case, take the gerbils into the bathroom occasionally, lock the door, and let them have a fun run in the (dry) tub. You can add toys or boxes for them to enjoy, or you can climb in yourself - you make a very interesting play structure! You may notice them roll on the cool porcelain. If so, sprinkle a little chinchilla dust in the corner and let them take a dust bath. (After the gerbils are out, you can wash it away or sweep it out with a hand broom).
If you did your homework, your gerbils will be safe from many common
accidental injuries and illnesses, and you’ll be set for years of fun
with your new friends. Enjoy!
Cleaning your gerbils' tank is easy and will take just a few
minutes. While the tank is being cleaned, put your gerbils in a safe
place such as a critter-keeper, or in the bathtub (as long as you don't
need the tub to clean the tank! And close the bathroom door against
cats and dogs!) Then simply:
Rinse the water bottle thoroughly with hot water. Use a pipecleaner
to clean gunk out of the spout. Refill with cold water.
Return your gerbils to their tank and watch them investigate their
curiously new world!
Gerbils have a reputation as low-maintenance pets, and for the most part this is true. Many gerbils will live out their whole lives without needing to see a vet. Gerbils do not require annual exams or shots. Sometimes, however you will see a symptom or a change in your gerbils behavior that concerns you. Here are some common gerbil ailments and some home-spun, wives- tale advice. This advice is no substitute for a vets exam! If you cannot help your gerbil with these simple measures, see a vet.
| My Gerbil... | It might be... |
|---|---|
| has diarrhea | unless you have recently given him or her a lot of unusual foods or veggies, diarrhea is a serious symptom which could affect your own health (more...). See the vet. If you cannot see the vet immediately, start emergency ornicycline treatment. You might want to provide a warm corner with a heat lamp or reptile heater for comfort. Heat only one part of the tank so s/he can choose a comfy spot. Wash hands thoroughly after handling the gerbil, its bedding or anything in/around the tank, including the lid. If you have more than one tank, isolate the tank with the sick gerbil from the other tanks, but do not remove his/her cagemates until after you talk with the vet. (They may need treatment too.) |
| seems to be tilting its head to one side | if you observe this behavior when your gerbil is standing on its hind legs, and if your gerbil is pink-eyed and sways slightly when s/he does this, it is probably okay. Pink-eyed gerbils sometimes display this head-tilt & sway behavior: some say it is a way of them focusing their poorer eyesight. If however this behavior comes on suddenly, is true at all times (not just when standing up prarie-dog style), or seems to also affect the gerbils behavior or energy level, or is accompanied by kicking or scratching at an ear, your gerbil could have an ear infection or a middle-ear tumor. See the vet. |
| is digging madly in the corner | normal. Gerbils do this all the time. Give him or her a tube if the noise bothers you. |
| is lethargic, sleeps more, isnt running on the wheel | if your gerbil is getting older (2 years or so), and the change has been gradual, it might just be normal aging. However, a sudden change in behavior is suspect. Watch your gerbil closely for 24 hours and observe what you see. If you keep weight records, weigh your gerbil again. If something has definitely changed, behaviorally, in his/her appearance, or you observe a significant weight gain or loss, see the vet. |
| has bugs crawling on him! | mites. Bummer. You can choose one of two treatments: do-it-yourself, or get help from the vet. (1) To do it yourself, you'll need to get small animal mite spray from the pet store. Then follow the instructions on the AGS Care Page for Mites. Or, (2) your vet can prescribe Ivermectin, which you will dose orally; it will destroy the mites. |
has lost part of his tail! There's blood and bone showing!
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your gerbil has degloved his tail. Try to judge if your gerbil is in pain. If she is squeaking, hiding, nips you, or has her ears plastered back, she probably is in pain, and you should see the vet for an amputation. It can be expensive, but it will solve the problem right away, and your vet will give her antibiotics. If your gerbil seems completely normal, the wound will eventually heal. The exposed bone will fall off. However, you must keep the wound clean. Wash it and apply antibiotic ointment twice a day. Find a bedding that won't stick to the wound but will be soft. Torn up tissue paper might be best, or shredded brown paper Eco-Bedding. Or you can shred paper yourself with a home shredder. Change it frequently to minimize infection, and put your gerbil on a course of emergency ornacycline treatment. |
| seems to be paralyzed on one side; is dragging around, or can't fully open one eye | a stroke. Gerbils do seem to be prone to this. The key now is quality of life. As long as your gerbil can continue to enjoy normal, gerbilly things, like digging, grooming, eating and chewing, then just enjoy your time together. However, over time you may see his or her abilities deteriorate. Dont wait until your gerbil is curled up unmoving and you are trying to hand-feed it seeds while it bites you. Once your gerbil cannot enjoy life, see the vet for humane euthanasia. |
| looks thin; her head looks more pointy, and I can feel her backbone | if sudden, if accompanied by diarrhea, or the gerbils sides have sunken in suddenly, treat as above under diarrhea (namely, see the vet). If the weight loss has been more gradual, first check your gerbils teeth. Gerbils should have two nice, fairly long top teeth and two very short lower teeth. The mouth should be able to close fully. If your gerbil is not chewing cardboard voraciously and not eating well, teeth could be the problem. Try a soft diet for a couple of weeks, then check the teeth again. If they still don't look right... you know, see the vet.. |
Keep in mind that gerbils, as prey animals, are hardwired by nature to hide their illness from you until they are so sick they cannot mask their symptoms. Therefore, once your gerbil’s behavior or appearance is noticeably different, he or she is quite sick. In these circumstances, time is of the essence. Do not wait to see what happens. Take your gerbil to the vet.
How do you find a vet
experienced
with small animals to treat your gerbil? This can be difficult as many
vets do not see many small animals. Try these sources to find a vet
familiar with gerbils. (Thanks to the AGS members list for these
suggestions!)
http://www.avma.org/statevma/default.asp - the American Veterinary Medical Association’s database of state Veterinary Medical Associations lets you search by specialty within your state.
http://www.aemv.org - the Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians lists veterinarians by state under the link for geographical location.
http://www.aav.org - the American Association of Avian Vets. Avian vets often treat other exotics as well.
http://www.ratfanclub.org/vetref.html - a list of vets recommended by the Rat Fan Club for Eastern and Midwest US.
http://www.guineapigs.info/vets/vetcheck/index.php - a list of guinea pig (cavy) vetsFor people in the Northwest Boston, MA area, we recommend Dr.
William Sager, Sager Animal Hospital, 436 Great Road, Acton, MA 01720,
(978) 263-3535.
Gerbils
live a happy and active but short life. Gerbils’ longevity averages
about 3 years, although they can live to 5 years or even longer.
When a gerbil does pass away, you will be left with the problem of how
to handle its surviving partner. Gerbils are highly social animals, and
they do not like to live alone. Recognizing the signs of aging in your
pet may help prepare you for the decisions you must make when one of
your gerbil friends goes on to “Gerbil Heaven”.
Even by two or two and a half years, you may notice signs of aging
in your beloved pet. Your gerbil may slow down a bit, moving less
around the tank, sleeping more. He or she may have less interest in his
or her wheel, and may chew up tubes and boxes with less gusto.
These changes
may be most noticeable in comparision with its partner; if you
regularly see one gerbil up and about while the other sleeps soundly in
the nest, it may mean that one of your gerbils is slowing down.
When your gerbil reaches two years of age, monitor its health and
behavior more closely. Consider investing in a digital
scale ($25 or so) and weigh your gerbils once a month or more, keeping
a
written record. Any steady or sudden loss or gain of weight could be a
sign of trouble. Weight loss could mean your gerbil’s teeth are getting
too long (because of reduced chewing), or an underlying medical
condition may be present. Weight gain, particularly rapid gain, can
indicate a tumor or other disease. These conditions should be brought
to
a vet’s attention promptly.
Some elderly gerbils will show no particular decline in function,
and then suddenly one day, you visit the tank to discover he or she
cannot move. Or, you might watch your gerbil slowly shutting down,
sleeping most of the time, and perhaps grumpy and nippy when handled.
The important thing to observe is whether your gerbil can
or cannot take pleasure in normal gerbil activities: chewing,
nesting, digging, grooming, eating, drinking and running in the wheel.
As long as your gerbil is doing what gerbils like to do, let him or her
continue doing it. But when the time comes that your gerbil has no
interest in anything but sleeping, or cannot move around to feed
itself, the merciful course of action is to see your vet about letting
your gerbil go.
When one of your gerbils passes away, the other may at first seem
shocked or distressed. He or she may sit quietly in a corner, or may
hunt around the tank as if looking for his lost friend. His immediate
sorrow may be consoled by extra attention from you, by cleaning the
cage to remove the scent of his missing friend, by adding new toys or
diversions, or by putting the tank in a room where there are other
gerbils present. (Throw everyone in the room a box so that there is
lots of noise of scurrying and digging!)
Other gerbils may show no change in behavior after the loss of its
partner. It doesn’t mean your gerbil is hard-hearted! Even though your
gerbil may act the same, he or she will live a longer, healthier life
with a new companion.
So, the next step is to get a new friend for your gerbil. If your
elderly gerbil died of a sudden (and possibly contagious)
illness, you may wish to wait a week or so to observe the survivor for
symptoms. A week or so alone will also increase your remaining gerbil’s
interest in a new friend, easing the introduction process. Use this
week of waiting to investigate sources for a new gerbil pet. Keep your
survivor busy with affection and entertainment.
The new friend you choose will depend on the gender and age of your
survivor. This table gives suggestions about the easiest and
most-likely-to-succeed introductions, using the Split Cage Method:
| Male |
Female |
|
| Young (< 6 mo) |
Another young male |
Another young female |
| Adult (6 mo-2 years) |
1 or 2 young males |
A younger adult female |
| Senior (2 yrs+) |
2 young males |
A male (any age) |
The rationale behind these recomendations is as follows. Males tend
to be very nurturing, and generally will accept younger males without
difficulty. If your survivor is already elderly himself, pairing him
with two young males rather than one lets you avoid repeating this
exercise again in the near future.
Females, on the other hand, are more particular about new partners.
Ideally, a new female partner should be about the same size as your
survivor, so that the newcomer has a chance of holding her own if the
introduction gets testy. Our suggestion of introducing a male to your
elderly female gerbil may at first sound shocking, but females
generally cannot have pups past the
age of two or two-and-a-half, and a female may accept a male more
readily. Therefore, a male-female pairing may have
the best chance of success with an older female left alone.
If for any reason you are feeling like you’d rather not bring in a
new friend and continue your gerbil hobby, leaving your gerbil alone
may seem like the only option. If your surviving gerbil is himself very
elderly (more than three years old), you can take consolation that he
or she probably will not have too much time alone. However, he or she
will live more happily with a friend. You might see if another family
would like to the experience of re-pairing your elderly gerbil and
taking over the hobby. If your gerbil must
stay alone, lots of attention from you, frequent grooming with a
small brush, good food, and a warm nest will help make his or her last
months more joyful. Ideally, though, you will bring another friend into
your elderly gerbil’s life, as there is no substitute for a good friend!
Gerbil shows are run by the American Gerbil Society. Any AGS member can show his or her gerbils in a show. Gerbils are judged for how well they meet standards for color, conformation, and temperament.
As a true gerbil lover, you cannot find any other place in this world where you can immerse yourself completely, at least for one day, among people who share your love for these adorable little creatures. The Gerbil Show world is a small but tight-knit band of friendly people who love to talk gerbils, answer questions, compare pedigrees, and swap stories. Many are gifted crafters and builders with gerbil toys, jewelry, art work, cages and other gear to sell.
The AGS holds an annual show in the Midwest in the Fall, and in the Northeast in the Spring. Additional shows may be added over time. Consider attending the next gerbil show in your area.